Saturday, February 2, 2008

Carnival tradition

It is carnival season. In Croatia we have a long and interesting carnival tradition. Each region has its name for carnival, in Zagreb and Zagorje region it will be fašnik, Slavonija poklade, seaside krnjeval or karneval or maškare used all over Croatia. First think that comes to my mind when carnival is mentioned is krafne. This is a cake made during carnival season more less in whole Croatia, except seaside, where krostule or fritule are made. Krafne are similar to doughnuts. Recipe you can find in my cookbook.
Zvoncari is another carnival association I have. I used to watch them as a child in my home town Zagreb. It is not a typical Zagreb custom, but I lived in the city suburbs that were a village before world war two and they kept the village custom of Zvoncari. Today you can see them in villages and Rijeka carnival. Zvončari" (bellmen) - the origin of which dates back to prehistoric times. The customs are typical for the regions in which cattle was raised - we know it from the equipment of "Zvončari" as their primary task was to scare away evil spirits of winter and to stir up new spring-time cycle. "Zvončari" have a sheepskin thrown over and a big bell, tied around their waist, on their back. On their heads they wear stylized masks, representing strange animal heads with a red tongue stuck out and with horns. "Zvončari" in Rijeka region wear white trousers and sailor’s striped shirts, while in northern Croatia they are covered with animal fur. In their hands they hold a "balta" or "bačuka" - a stylized mace. In carnival time, regardless of weather conditions, "Zvončari" as a big group go from village to village in the region, following always the same schedule drawn up centuries ago. There is a music section, too, at the head of the procession accompanied with young boys, the "eggers", who ask for eggs the local citizens which they need for supper. Local resident join the group of the bell bearers, welcome them and follow all along the villages they pass by. The dancing derives from ancient times. They gather in the middle of a village, in front of pubs or at crossroads, where they form a circle. They perform a special show, comprising wrestling in pairs or all together, rough movements with the bodies and separating at the end. I remember when Zvoncari used to come to my street kids would run into houses usually terrified by the noise they made and watch them form safe distance through window.
Towns usually didn’t have Zvoncari or very little, feasts on Tuesday before Ash Wednesday were and still are very popular. Most popular feasts are in Samobor and Rijeka, but almost every town has some kind of feast. The central part of most of town feasts is burning as called in Samobor prince Fasnik. It is a big doll made from straw and old clothes sometimes even representing some politician or other public figure that is not very popular within citizens. After a “trial” where prince Fasnik is accused of many crimes (bad weather, raise of prices etc…) he is burned.
The main attraction of all carnival traditions in Croatia are children. Kids dress up and walk form house to house asking for gifts. They sometimes sing and make a little performance. In our old tradition in especially north west and east Croatia children have to sing and perform and as a reward the would get money, eggs or krafne.
Every region has is own eating traditions during carnival. In Zagorje and Zagreb region sauerkraut,Krafne, sausages (cesnjovke-garlic sausages typical for Samobor) baked beef or turkey are most popular. Slavonija table is full of various sausages, dried meat, krafne. Seaside and inland Dalmatia have slightly different customs. Instead of krafne, fritule and hrostule are made. Both recipes you can find in my cookbook.
Since carnival somehow represents a new start because of a spring coming soon, there are many superstitions connected with it. For example in Zagorje region it is believed if you sprinkle your feet on Ash Wednesday with water where sauerkraut was cooked, this will protect your form sneak bites all year thorough. Another custom says if you on Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, before sunrises eat sauerkraut with krvavice (similar to black pudding, blood pudding) flies will stay away from you all year thorough. If you drink milk on Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, you will not get sunburns that year. Interesting who know maybe, it works.

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